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Replace Your Roof?

Any damage or signs of wear call for immediate action to keep water from seeping under the shingles and rotting the wood sheathing beneath. Ignoring a problem—even what appears to be a small one—will accelerate the need to reroof and can add hundreds of dollars to the cost of a new roof.

Proper safety pre-cautions for steep pitches


If your roof is more than 20 years old and most of the shingles are damaged or badly worn, it’s time to replace it. Lets take you through the three most-common ones: replacing asphalt shingles; gluing down a badly curled shingle; and repairing shingles that have cracked.

If part of a shingle is missing, you'll have to replace the whole thing. First see if you have any leftover shingles from the last time the roof was worked on(with any luck, the builder or the roofer who handled the job left some behind). If not, you'll have to buy a bundle at a home center or lumberyard. If you can't find a perfect match, choose the closest one.

Replacing a damaged shingle requires a hammer, a flat pry bar, a utility knife and a handful of 11/4-in. roofing nails. Each shingle is initially secured with four nails; when the next shingle course above is installed, however, its nails also pass through the top edge of the shingles in the course below.

Begin removing the first row of nails by sliding the pry bar under the shingle immediately above the damaged one and gently lifting it to free it from the sealer strip. You'll see the first row of nails beneath.

Slip the pry bar under the damaged shingle and pry upward. Once the nail pops up about 1/4 in., remove the pry bar, press the shingle down and pull out the nail. Repeat this procedure for the remaining three nails. Then push the prybar under the shingle directly above the damaged one and remove the second row of nails the same way. After yanking all eight nails, pull out the damaged shingle.

Asasphalt shingles get older, their corners often begin to curl downward orupward. If you notice a shingle starting to curl, you can forestall theinevitable curling by gluing down the curled section.

Usea caulking gun to apply a dab of roofing sealant under the corner. Weigh itdown with a brick (right); leave the weight in place for at least 24 hoursuntil the sealant dries. That's all there is to it.

Gutters and Gutter Guards

Replacing the existing gutters that are on nail/spike to a hanger system will prevent detaching of the gutters. A worthwhile investment to protect your fascia board from rotting. Also ask about enlarged 6'' gutter option and 4'' downspout for better water drainage.


Gutter Guards

Installing a gutter guard will allow you piece of mind for many years to come without the hassle of hiring a handyman to clear your gutters and clogged downspouts.



Replacing skylights with the correct material is key to prevent future leaks on your new leaf. Which is why we custom flash the surround and install a rubberized leak barrier around it for a 2 step protection while most contracts will resort to caulking and using existing flashing that is bent or rusted.



Architectural shingles: we install using the manufacturer's specifications of  six roofing nails per shingle on every sections of the roof to protect from high wind. Duration shingle has a patented SureNail grip that has the highest pull away test to insure you wont loose any shingles to excess wind.

Tear-Off: like any project we prep the area around the roof to protect shrubs by laying a tarp so that when we remove the single-layer roof (shingles, felt paper, and nails) down to the deck there wont be any damage done to the house or the landscaping.

Roof decking: we replace damaged decking material with new plywood and then installed new synthetic felt on the roof. OSB (Oriented strand board) decks have quickly become a preferred option for modern roof sheathing that make up the wooden surface of your roof. These boards are what your shingles and other components are attached to. We don't know if any decking is damaged until tear-off of the old roof. Rotten boards are replaced before installing new roofing components.

Roof flashing
: new flashing is always installed. Roof flashing is used to direct water away from critical areas of the roof, anywhere your shingles butt up against something like a wall, chimney, or skylight.

Synthetic Underlayment
: synthetic underlayment is more durable than felt underlayment. Felt underlayment is much more prone to rip from high winds and during the installation process. Synthetic underlayment also holds nails better and repels water instead of absorbing it.

Drip edge
: we install Rollex Drip Edge along the eaves and gables of the roof. Drip edge is the metal flashing that's installed at the edges of the roof to help control the flow of water away from your fascia and other roofing components.

Leak Barrier:
think of it as a big piece of rubber tape that is three foot wide, with an adhesive back, it goes all along the edge of your roof, in any valleys and around any of the penetrations, around anything coming through the roof, and along any wall that hits the roof.

Roof vents
We installed new roof vents. Without proper attic ventilation, the life of your roof will be drastically reduced due to the continual expansion and contraction of trapped hot and cold air. Your roof vents stop this from happening by allowing your attic to breathe correctly.

Pipe boots
We replaced all pipe boots. Your roof pipes need to be covered, so water doesn't run down them into your home. A pipe boot is a synthetic rubber boot that goes around your roof penetrations (like sewer pipes) to prevent leaks.

Ridge cap
Architectural Ridge Cap was installed according to the manufacturer's specifications. Ridge capping is the finishing trim installed at the peak where the two slopes of a roof meet. They're thicker than regular shingles and pre-bent so that they can form to the ridges on your roof. Ridge capping will be replaced during a roof replacement. Some roofing contractors use 3-tab asphalt shingles as ridge capping to cut down on costs. We only use manufacturer-supplied ridge capping.

The Manufacturers' warranty was transferred to the owner for all materials. A lifetime warranty was provided to the owner for installation labor.

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Alice Robertson


I highly recommend ElevationBuild! I just bought my townhouse in November 2019 and was in desperate need of a new roof. Max and his team were incredibly thorough in explaining the project from start to finish, the benefits of the products they use and costs. They assisted me with navigating the process with both my home insurance company and HOA, along with answering any questions I had along the way. Each team that came out to my home was friendly, on time and thorough in their work - all during this strange time of quarantine. The finished result provided me far more than a new roof - I am 100% confident in all of the work that has been done, knowing it will last for years and years to come. And it looks amazing!




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